Westport Vinyl Privacy Fence Kit with No-Dig Post (4ft H x 6ft W)
Westport Vinyl Privacy Fence

Before You Begin

  • Call 811 before you dig to check for underground utilities.
  • Build one complete panel first, then drive all remaining pipes, attach posts, and build out from there.
  • If your yard slope exceeds 3–4" per panel, your post will not be long enough to accommodate the slope — this fence cannot be installed on severely sloped terrain. The bottom of the rail bracket on the higher side should sit flush to the top of the ground.
  • If you hit rock or unstable ground, you can concrete the pipe into place — either during installation or afterward.

Returns: Please let us help resolve any issues before initiating a return. If a return is still necessary, it must be initiated with the retailer where the product was purchased.

Need Help or Replacement Parts?

Our US-based customer service team is available Monday-Friday, 9am-5pm EST.

For faster service, have your item number (BL19105) and part name ready. A batch lot number (found on the end of the box) is also helpful if available — it helps us identify and resolve any production issues on our end.

Finishing Post: BL19042

Your panel comes with 1 post/anchor kit. You will need 1 BL19042 to finish the fence run.

If you are installing a gate, you will need two finishing posts — one to finish the run, and one to support the gate. See next diagram for help visualizing.

Purchase 1 BL19042 to finish your fence run

Buying Guide

Product Specifications & Dimensions

BL19105 Dimensions and Specifications

Post Pounder Considerations

Pounders can be purchased/rented at your local hardware store, or on our website. Don't use a 5lb sledgehammer — without enough force behind each swing, driving the pipe turns into a slow, frustrating grind.

Good

Good: Sledge Hammer 10-15lbs

Sledgehammer
10-15lbs.
A basic option for very small projects. Requires two people to keep pipes level during installation.

Better

Better: Manual post pounder

Manual Post Pounder
12-30lbs.
Best for projects with fewer than 10 pipes. Available at your local hardware store.

Best

Best: Gas Powered Post Pounder

Gas Powered Post Pounder
Rentals are ideal for larger projects. Significantly reduces time and effort required.

Note: Choose a post pounder with a barrel diameter of 3" or greater. Pounder barrel cannot be longer than 24in. Pounder must have 3 inch or greater barrel diameter

Required Tools

Drill with 2" Bit

Tool: Drill with 2 inch bit

Measuring Tape

Measuring Tape

Stakes (for stringline)

Stakes (for stringline)

Hammer / Mallet (for Stakes)

Hammer / Mallet (for Stakes)

Stringline Reel

Stringline Reel

Pencil

Pencil

Large Level

Large Level

Small Level (for pipe pounding)

Small Level

Part Identification

A

Post Cap (2)
BL19105 Part A Post Cap

B

Post (1)
4" × 4" × 53" BL19105 Part B Post

C

Rails (2)
1½" × 3½" × 69¾" BL19105 Part C Rails

D

Boards (6)
½" × 12" × 42⅜" BL19105 Part D Boards

E

Pipe Anchor (1)
1⅝" Diameter × 58½" L BL19105 Part E Pipe Anchor

F

Channel (2)
1½" × 1" × 38⅞" BL19105 Part F Channel

G

Bracket (4)
BL19105 Part G Bracket

H

1" Self-Drilling Stainless Steel Screw (30)
BL19105 Part H Self-Drilling Screw

Practice Makes Perfect

Start with one full panel — it's the best way to learn the process. Then drive all pipes, install your posts, and build each remaining panel one at a time.

Build one full panel first

Important: Call 811 before you start driving your pipes!

Call 811 before you dig

Step 1: Determine Slope

Check your yard's slope before you begin.

If the elevation change is under approximately 4-5" per 6' panel, no extra posts are needed — trim the post top to follow the grade once the panel is built.

If the slope exceeds that, you'll need to split your panel: purchase an extra post and set of brackets before continuing.

Determine slope, under 5in per 6ft panel

Determine slope, over 5in per 6ft panel

Step 2: Set Stringline

Place a stake at each end of every fence run and tie string between them. Your pipes will be driven according to this line. Need help? Watch this video. set stringline between stakes

Step 3: Mark Pipe Locations

Use loose stakes or mark the ground every 74" to determine exact pipe locations. Measurements should be taken from center of pipe to center of pipe.

Mark pipe locations every 74 inches center to center

Step 4: Drive Pipe Anchor

Parts Required

E x1

If using a post pounder, remove the top donut and slide it up over the pipe first — your post pounder barrel cannot be longer than 24".

Mark pipe locations and drive second pipe anchor

Drive Pipe Anchor (E) into the ground at your first marked location, checking for level every 12", until the bottom donut touches the ground. Pound equally from all four sides to help maintain level. Continue until the lower gear touches the ground. Repeat for the second pipe, ensuring there is 74" between center of pipe to center of pipe.

Drive pipe anchor into ground, check level every 6 inches

Step 5: Adjust Donuts to Level

Install the top donut onto each pipe, one at a time, after both pipes are in the ground. Check for level, and use the donut tabs to adjust and compensate for a crooked pipe.

Pull the donut tabs out to remove donut

Adjust donuts to level

Step 6: Install Posts

Once both anchors are plumb, slide Post (B) down over the donuts. On flat ground, bury posts approximately 3" in the ground and compact dirt around them for added stability.

Install Posts

Step 7: Install First Bracket

Parts Required

G x1 H x4

Install one Bracket (G) on the post approximately 2" off the ground using 4 screws (H).

Install first bracket

Note: There could be a slight conflict between the head of the exposed screw and the end of the rail in a tight-fitting application — the end of the rail can be notched to accommodate.

Step 8: Position Bottom Rail and Mark Second Bracket

Parts Required

C x1

Place a second bracket over the opposite end of Rail (C) and slide the rail down into the existing original bracket. Use a level on top of the bottom rail to determine the height of the opposing bracket, and mark it for installation. Don't drive screws into this second bracket yet.

Step 8 Slide Rail into Bracket

Step 9: Install Lower Brackets

Parts Required

G x1 H x4

Temporarily remove the bottom rail, then permanently install the second lower Bracket (G) at your marked location using 4 screws (H).

Install second lower bracket at marked height

Step 10: Secure Bottom Rail

Parts Required

H x4

Insert the bottom Rail back into the lower brackets and secure it with 4 screws (H).

Secure bottom rail into lower brackets

Step 11: Install Channels

Parts Required

F x2 H x6

Center and install each Channel (F) on the post using 3 screws (H) per channel.

Center and install each channel

Step 12: Install Upper Brackets

Parts Required

G x2 H x8

Align the final Brackets (G) flush on top of the channels and secure each with 4 screws (H) (8 total).

Align and secure upper bracket on channel

Step 13: Install Boards

Parts Required

D x6

Install Boards (D) by sliding the two outer boards through the brackets and channels first, pushed to the back of the track. Follow the numbered sequence on the diagram — outer boards go in first.

Continue board installation sequence

Link the remaining Boards (D) together with their own track system, working inward. Install the middle boards last for the easiest fit, and double-check every board is pushed to the back of the track.

Board track detail

Completed board installation

Step 14: Install Top Rail

Parts Required

C x1 H x4

Slide the top Rail (C) into the upper brackets and secure with 4 screws (H) through the pre-drilled holes in the rail brackets.

Installing top rail into upper brackets

Securing top rail with screws through pre-drilled holes

Step 15: Install Post Caps

Parts Required

A x2

Trim down the tops of the posts if necessary, then press Post Caps (A) firmly onto each post to complete the panel.

Pressing post caps onto trimmed post tops

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